The Set Up
We met Mr Thach on the beach front on our first
morning in Nha Trang and I’m pretty sure we were both still drunk. He greeted
us with open arms and a big grin so we felt compelled to listen to whatever he
was flogging. It turns out he was an Easy
Rider motorbike guide and started selling in his 5 day tour of the Central
Highlands including Dalat, the mountain town we had sacrificed in favour of the
sun in Nha Trang.
The man himself
The idea of buying a tour from a random on the beach
front wasn’t in on our things do list,
especially as we were more than a little wary of scamsters, but he came
across as a really nice, genuine guy and came armed with a book full of
testimonials from previous excursions.
The one thing Mr Thach had going against him was he
was preventing us from reaching the promise land of the sunny beach so we
arranged to meet him at lunchtime to find out more. We sat down over a Pho and discussed the trip and it was refreshing to see that Thach actually listened to us and tailored a trip to our tastes, so we booked on the 3 day $300 tour.
Day 1
Mr Thach met us at our hotel at 8.30 and we caught our
first glimpse at the machines that would be taking us up into the mountains. I
had the pleasure of using Mr Thachs very own bike, but it became immediately
apparent the bike was hardly in mint condition. The front brakes didn't really work so the back brake was all we had,
which on a bike on a rough road can lead to a few skids, nice! My helmet wasn’t the best either with
the strap coming loose so that when we hit 70K the helmet would sometimes fly
back so the strap would strangle me a bit. None of this really mattered though
as we drove out of Nha Trang passing Turtle Island and Fairy Lady Mountain and
onto the main highway.
Fairy Lady Mountain - can you see her?
Mr Thach did speak English, of sorts but you really did have to tune
your ear in because it takes a bit of concentration to understand him, but the
man is self taught so I’ve got nothing but respect. We learned that he was a
fisherman for 17 years until he was caught in a horrendous storm in the
Philippians that killed hundreds of people and he was one of a handful of
survivors. Following the accident his mum told him he wasn’t to get back in a
boat, so he bought a bike taught himself English and 4 years later here we are.
To avoid the dreaded Monkey Bum (the curse of riding a
motorbike for 8 hours straight) the journey was broken up by regular pit stops, with
Thach pointed out places of interest. If someone had told me the first day
would involve a brick factory, pepper, rubber & coffee trees and a
carpentry workshop I probably would have laughed at the $300 price, but with
Thach it provided the journey with local colour and interest.
We arrived into Buon Ma Thuot in the Dak Lat province, just as it grew dark
and glad to give our bums a well earned rest.
Day 2
We were on the road by 8.30 and heading to our first
stop of Lok Lake a minority people village on the
banks of a tranquil lake. Now so far the road conditions had been fairly
decent, a mixture of smooth and not so smooth tarmac the start of Day 2 things
got a lot worse. The roads became massively uneven, dirt and rocks replaced
tarmac and the oncoming trucks and cars made for some slightly hairy moments.
One section of road took us through a working building site, with the track
just about wide enough for a bike and the lack of front brake meaning to stop
quickly was accompanied by a smart little skid.
Lok Lake
We stopped at ‘Elephant Rock’ for a quick breather as
the clouds cleared and we moved on up the mountains to another spectacular view
point at the top of a stone staircase at the side of the hill. After lunch we
continued on the fabulous mountains road to the waterfall and one of the highlights
ot the trip. It’s normally a good indicator of how good a waterfall is by how
hard it is to reach and this mini trek certainly had it’s moments! We had to
use a full blown vine to climb down one flight of steps, virtually crawl
through a section of river & jump across a small ravine to reach the
bottom, but when we finally reached the bottom we were rewarded with a spectacular sight.
Ban Doc Waterfall
Our final destination for the day would be the
mountain town of Dalat
so we pressed on were rewarded with some more excellent roads. Twisting,
sweeping corners, tight but well sighted hairpins – this road was so much fun
to drive, but obviously required a fair amount of concentration so at times it
just wasn’t possible to fully enjoy the amazing views!
Dalat was something of a disappointment, with a gaudy mix
of neon, a man made lake and mini Effel Tower mixing to make a truly strange
little town but again Thach showed us a good night and even arranged for me to
try some scorpion wine a 65% liquor
that attested like an extreme version of whiskey (and sends people straight to
sleep apparently!)
Day 3
Our final day saw us take in the sight of Dalat, which
included the Crazy House, a strange concept hotel that is now just a bizarre and
pretty pointless tourist attraction. We left Dalat pretty glad that we chose to
beach of Nha Trang and set off down the mountain for
what proved to be the finest section of road in the whole 3 days. Faye tooks
the reins of one of the bikes and I could enjoy the views as we drove through
the clouds and down a wonderful stretch of road. We decednded by about 1000m
and immediately felt the warmer air like a huge hair dryer, we swapped bikes
after lunch ready for the final leg of the trip.
We had been very lucky with the weather so far so I
guess we shouldn’t have been too surprised to hit rain, but it didn’t make it
any less of a pain. The rain in itself was pretty harsh, actually feeling more like
hail but the main problem was it amplified everything that was wrong with the
bike. The lack of front brake became a real problem, with a back brake fighting
against the loose gravel skids ceesed to be fun anymore. My helmets visor was
so dirty I couldn’t see through it which made the final stretch back to Nha
Trang more than a little bit hairy!
We arrived back and reflected on a brilliant 3 days, thankful we could finally rest our monkey bums!